HELP drz400s 2003

[Luke B]

Hi
Pic 1 Rear brake but i guess you knew that already
Pic 2 If those wires are the same colour, then yes connect them.
Pic3 Probably live to starter if only 1 large wire in the plastic tube.
Pic 4 Bridged side stand cut out switch wire
Pic 5 Starter solenoid.

To find main earth for bike follow from - terminal on battery to chassis and check to ensure good contact

Should be 3 wires to tail light. + for brake light, + for tail light and the - or earth, you can find which is which by using a multi meter and checking continuity to earth ( chassis).

You also need to test how much juice is in the battery should be about 12.9V while engine off and between 13-15 with engine running. Whilst engine is running turn on all lights( high beam) and test again, if volts have dropped dramatically then could be faulty reg/rec.
My guess is battery is shite.

Good Luck and i think you r gonna need it.
L

[11jakey]

Thanks Luke! thats cleared that up for me!

I Jet washed the bike thoroughly and it seemed to cure the slight flickering of rear light....?
Battery is all good, like new, very powerful.
Just i follow the earth from the battery and i just cannot see where it goes, it sounds silly but i really cant follow it.

Are you also a DRZ owner? would you know anyone with some supermoto wheels?

Thanks for your help, appreciate it!

Jake

[Luke B]

Hi

I wish issues with my bike were solved by jet washing

How have you determined that battery is very strong?
i cant understand why you cant follow the Neg from the battery to the frame, very odd.

No i don't have a DRZZZZZZZZZ they don't do them in Orange.

Where do you live ? i could pop round if not to far away.

Luke

[11jakey]

Hi,

Haha, it was odd how it fixes it.

I follow the wire but it is hidden!

Oh ktm guy eh!

How much so you know about supermoto wheels? The ones in that eBay listing do you think they will fit straight into my bike?
Isn't there a issue where you need to get a caliper bracket or get a smaller disc?

I'm not home today, thanks though! Will let you know if I get stuck.

[kentWR]

You only need a caliper bracket to move the caliper back if you are going to use a 320mm oversized disc on the front. Otherwise just use your standard disc and you will not need a bracket.

[11jakey]

So if I just take the disc off my dirt wheel and put on sm wheels it will all fit fine?
Why would anyone use a bigger disc then? Seems silly. They don't go 140mph...

[kentWR]

Yeah your disc will work. People change them because the larger disc means better front brake basically. A larger disc effectively moves the breaking area closer to the outside of the wheel. More surface area to compress onto. It's to do with torque and surface area. On the larger diameter, more rotor passes through the caliper with one rotation of the wheel. More circumference = more brake length for the same distance traveled. A 160mm has 502.654mm of braking length and a 185mm has 581.946mm, that's an extra 3" of brake per revolution.

[11jakey]

Thanks for your reply, very technical! I need to keep an eye out for some supermoto wheels!
£400 I can't afford. If you ever hear of any for sale then point them my way

Also would you happen to know if the small round thing in bottom of my carb with wire going to it, is a carb heater? It is a bronze sort of colour.

When I start my bike in the morning with choke on It cranks about 6-7 times before it started and that's me pulling throttle open a little too.

Thanks
Jake

[Dave]

More circumference = more brake length for the same distance traveled. A 160mm has 502.654mm of braking length and a 185mm has 581.946mm, that's an extra 3" of brake per revolution.

I love answers like this

[kentWR]

Thanks for your reply, very technical! I need to keep an eye out for some supermoto wheels!
£400 I can't afford. If you ever hear of any for sale then point them my way

Also would you happen to know if the small round thing in bottom of my carb with wire going to it, is a carb heater? It is a bronze sort of colour.

When I start my bike in the morning with choke on It cranks about 6-7 times before it started and that's me pulling throttle open a little too.

Thanks
Jake

Na its not a carb heater. Its the solenoid valve its a form of engine limiter, it limits the throttle response in the first 3 gears.
It does this by opening the area above the carb diaphragm to atmosphere which prevents the slide fully opening.

[11jakey]

Oh! Thanks so much, I have been wondering what it is. How come you know this? Ha.
Any idea on the starting in the morning? Cranks about 6-7 times before anything happens? After that it starts lovely.

[kentWR]

Oh! Thanks so much, I have been wondering what it is. How come you know this? Ha.
Any idea on the starting in the morning? Cranks about 6-7 times before anything happens? After that it starts lovely.

Lets just say I know my way around a bike! owned many drz's. Had one that was very high spec

DRZ-E Fitted it with S wiring loom and subframe
450 Bigbore kit
Hotrods +4mm stroker crank
94mm wiseco piston
Hotcams stage 2 in & out
Magura radial master cylinder braking caliper and disc galfer
More or less standard jetting on FCR39 (165 main, 32 pilot, std needle)
Busa MCCT
Full yoshi stainless
Decomp and kickstart kit
CFC case covers
Airbox modified
Heavier fork and shock springs
Hm valving
Excels on Talon hubs, 3.5" & 4.25",
IMS 17 litre fuel tank
Catch tank on custom mount
Trailtech to replace standard speedo unit
Big Hun Rev box
windham pro tapers
tag triple clamps and bars cycra pro bends
superbrace fork brace
K&N Filter

Probably some other stuff I have left off. As for your hard starting issue. Whats the mileage on the bike? whats the service history like? start with basics first. New plug, stick an optimizer on battery, then move on from there