Oh Cock !!!! (and what a cock!!)

[big yellow tractor]

Dicking about on the KTM and flipped a wheelie. Luckilly I was wearing a lid but no other riding gear. Got some bruises and scrapes but will be OK

The bike not so good

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[6daysextreme]

happens to everyone Colin but usually only once
When i did it its because i couldn't recover as rear pads had fallen out with that stupid quick release pad pin - DOH

[big yellow tractor]

I blame the stinky, nasty little bike. I mean, really, what's wrong with a nice linear power curve. I'm getting very tired of this coming "on pipe" nonsense.

I haven't lost a wheelie since I was a nipper. I often "over rotate" on my trials bike though, but that's down to too much grip and not enough gravity.

[6daysextreme]

there is an easy fix for your 'coming on the pipe';
the square power valve screw adjusts the start time of the power band
if you unscrew it until it is flush with the aluminium surround case it will ride like a 4T, i.e. always be in the band
if you screw it in as far as it goes the power band will only come in at the end of the rev range

what an enormous difference it makes
its really useful for 4T riders who are making the change to 2T

[big yellow tractor]

When I first got the bike I had a fiddle with the power valve so that the power comes on a bit earlier but not quite as sharp. To be honest, the 200 hasn't got lots of power to give when off pipe so it is a bit of a trade off. It will chug along ok but it aint no trials bike at low revs.

The issue was that the bike wasn't quite warmed up and running a bit hesitantly. It cleared it's throat and I was on the deck.

[Kilbs]

May I be cheeky and ask how high you can get your wheels off the ground with that lifter? and is it easy to push it around with a bike on it?
I've been looking at one of them to get my bike (same as yours) on one of the Dave Cooper bike carriers with little or no effort.

Also on the power-valve if it is wound right in and tamed, would that make the idle seem to run rich?
(after checking things on my PV were moving I figured adjusting it would be the next step and found it wound right in, and mine seems to be really rich with 38/180 jets + nozI needle).

Would be very interested to know what jetting and needle are you running on your Stink-wheel, and possibly how many turns out you found the PV best at?

Oh and good luck with bending that subframe back, mine was about an inch out when i got it and that seemed a mission .. are you cutting and TIGin? or using the scaffold pole of doom?

Many Thanks
Rich

[big yellow tractor]

May I be cheeky and ask how high you can get your wheels off the ground with that lifter? and is it easy to push it around with a bike on it?
I've been looking at one of them to get my bike (same as yours) on one of the Dave Cooper bike carriers with little or no effort.

I would guess maybe three feet but you shouldn't need any mechanical assistance to get a bike in a rack; put bike near rack, lift in front wheel, lift in back wheel. What vehicle is the rack on ? There's not any cars I can think of that would have a trailer nose-weight spec enough to take and enduro bike, even a little stinkwheel.

Also on the power-valve if it is wound right in and tamed, would that make the idle seem to run rich?
(after checking things on my PV were moving I figured adjusting it would be the next step and found it wound right in, and mine seems to be really rich with 38/180 jets + nozI needle).

Would be very interested to know what jetting and needle are you running on your Stink-wheel, and possibly how many turns out you found the PV best at?

I'm afraid you're asking things that are well out of my sphere on knowledge. I just turned the PV adjuster one way then the other and counted and noted what I did with a little road test in between. Re jetting, it seems sweet as it is so I haven't looked at it or touched it. I did notice that on a very cold enduro day recently, it was very crisp so I suspect it was heading towards being a little too lean. At all other times it seems sweet.

Oh and good luck with bending that subframe back, mine was about an inch out when i got it and that seemed a mission .. are you cutting and TIGin? or using the scaffold pole of doom?

The subframe has one broken leg and the mounting has sheared off the other. Looking at it closely, it's got little cracks at all the joints so I'm going to fit a nice shiny new one. I might repair the old one or I might just hang it in the workshop to remind me not to be such a twat.

[Kilbs]

Shouldnt have trouble lifting it but..... i'm a little weak.. read that unfit aswell and just above 7 stone if i jump high enough on the scales .

Bike rack is on a Discovery so think the 120kgs tops? the lil stroker weighs would have been fine. lifter will make it simples.

Thanks
Rich

[big yellow tractor]

Disco, no problem with weight but you've got some height to contend with. My lifter only rolls about ok on a smooth "power-floated" concrete floor; it'd be hopeless on anything else. You could buy the non-wheeled version and fit it with some more suitable wheels of course.

I think you should be able to come up with a method that allows you to get the bike in the rack yourself though. The problem is that once you've got the front wheel in, you are lifting probably 80% of the whole eight of the bike to lift the back. If you had an intermediate lift point (a beer grate or hop-up perhaps) you might be able to manage. Also most of us can lift a lot of weight within a set range so think about making up some webbing straps so you are lifting the bike in a place that's right for you.

Another hint, up your tyre pressures; even an ickle trials bike can be a bugger to get out of a rack if it's squished itself down into the hoops.

Have fun and let us know what you come up with.

[big yellow tractor]

I have seen CCTV footage of the incident

The bike tumbles into frame followed by me rolling in half a second later. I tried to get a copy but the chap didn't know how to do it; said he'd have another look when he had nowt better to do.

Found a list that states "Part Number XX0012345678987654321" is included on the following models and broadening my search has meant I now have a clean and straight sub-frame on it's way. Other parts were ordered from Premier Bikes.

Hopefully should get it put back together next weekend.

P.S. what is the crack with some idiots on ebay ? I have seen so many bent and twisted second-hand bits sell for much more than the new (and readily available) new O.E.M. parts.

[big yellow tractor]

The little KTM is now back together.

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Some odd bits to fettle and fiddle with but it's pretty much ready to go.