the clip on my 350 EXC-F chain wears out really fast, I'm having to replace it every 2 -3 rides. As far as I can see, my standard chain guide is well aligned with the rear sprocket, no obvious rubbing.
Perhaps it's time to invest in a TM Chainworks guide at £80 - would that solve the problem?
Alternatively.... I recently ordered a new split link and they've sent me a rivet one by mistake. Which got me thinking.... would fitting a rivet link solve the problem? And if so, presumably I need a special tool for this?
I've always used split links in the past, primarily I suppose because they're more convenient e.g. if you want to remove the chain, but I presume rivet links are more robust.
Any thoughts?
Graham
split link versus rivet?
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Re: split link versus rivet?
Is the Slipper on the swing arm worn ?
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Re: split link versus rivet?
I usually fit split links to off-road bikes but I just fitted a new chain on my ickle KTM with a rivet link. I realised that I couldn't remember the last time I took a chain off to clean it but I have marked the joining link just in case (cleaned the side plate with spirit and coloured it in with a sharpie)
I've had a MotionPro chain splitter / riveter kit for ages. There's a bit on a knack to doing it right; the Renthal links come with little wire thingies that you put under the side-plates so that when you rivet, you don't end up with a tight spot. You just wiggle these out with pliers when you're done. The MotionPro kit I've got just squashes the end of the pin a bit but I've seen kits that either dent the middle of the pin or quad stake it for a factory look. To be honest, the side plates are usually such a tight fit on the pins that I doubt you need to do much at all. The old method was to get your mate to hold a club-hammer against the back of the pin while you struck the front with a centre punch. If it felt a bit floppy, just gave it another good thwack.
I've seen a few chains broken on the trial but I think only one was a joining link issue. Most have just been tight (or daft) riders trying to eek out a few more rides from a knackered chain. The most recent resulted in the chain bulking up around the front sprocket, smashing the engine case, bending the output shaft and breaking some bits in the gearbox. Oh, and quite a high-speed crash. I've seen a few lucky ones where the chain just unwinds onto the ground though.
My DRZ wears split link clips if the chain guide has got out of line from an off. I just put a bit of 3x2 through the wheel and knock it into line with lump-hammer.
I've had a MotionPro chain splitter / riveter kit for ages. There's a bit on a knack to doing it right; the Renthal links come with little wire thingies that you put under the side-plates so that when you rivet, you don't end up with a tight spot. You just wiggle these out with pliers when you're done. The MotionPro kit I've got just squashes the end of the pin a bit but I've seen kits that either dent the middle of the pin or quad stake it for a factory look. To be honest, the side plates are usually such a tight fit on the pins that I doubt you need to do much at all. The old method was to get your mate to hold a club-hammer against the back of the pin while you struck the front with a centre punch. If it felt a bit floppy, just gave it another good thwack.
I've seen a few chains broken on the trial but I think only one was a joining link issue. Most have just been tight (or daft) riders trying to eek out a few more rides from a knackered chain. The most recent resulted in the chain bulking up around the front sprocket, smashing the engine case, bending the output shaft and breaking some bits in the gearbox. Oh, and quite a high-speed crash. I've seen a few lucky ones where the chain just unwinds onto the ground though.
My DRZ wears split link clips if the chain guide has got out of line from an off. I just put a bit of 3x2 through the wheel and knock it into line with lump-hammer.

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Re: split link versus rivet?
Ktm standard chain slipper on top of the swing arm has upstands on the side that cause the wear to accelerate, an after market kit does not and will help, but you cant do away with the main culprit which is the rear chain guide.
something like this will help sort it out.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... t&_sacat=0
When you get a new chain and sprocket kit you should be ordering 3extra split links and 2 front sprockets, that should see you through the life of the chain.
Luke
something like this will help sort it out.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... t&_sacat=0
When you get a new chain and sprocket kit you should be ordering 3extra split links and 2 front sprockets, that should see you through the life of the chain.
Luke
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Re: split link versus rivet?
thanks Steve, Colin and Luke for your helpful suggestions. The slipper on the swinging arm looks fine, and I should perhaps have explained that it's not so much the clip that is wearing as the ends of the pins onto which the clip um... clips. So I think it's got to be the rear chain guide.
I'll give the rivet link a go and see how I get on.
cheers,
Graham
I'll give the rivet link a go and see how I get on.
cheers,
Graham
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Re: split link versus rivet?
Graham,
I recommend a rivet link, my KTM spring link used to wear out really quickly like yours. With a rivet its much stronger and you dont have to worry about the link.
Steve
I recommend a rivet link, my KTM spring link used to wear out really quickly like yours. With a rivet its much stronger and you dont have to worry about the link.
Steve
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Re: split link versus rivet?
Hi Graham,
I've got the same problem, lasts 2-3 rides, the pins are chamfering as well as the link wearing away. I've purchased a new rear guide £25 I think and when I compared the new guide to the old one you could see just how worn the original was. Every new split link I fitted was lasting a shorter time presumably because the guide was more and more worn. Haven't used the bike yet but I'm hoping that'll be the fix.
Derek
I've got the same problem, lasts 2-3 rides, the pins are chamfering as well as the link wearing away. I've purchased a new rear guide £25 I think and when I compared the new guide to the old one you could see just how worn the original was. Every new split link I fitted was lasting a shorter time presumably because the guide was more and more worn. Haven't used the bike yet but I'm hoping that'll be the fix.
Derek
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Re: split link versus rivet?
just to update this -- I decided to use the rivet link they'd sent me, so I bought a chain splitter/rivet tool off ebay for less than 11 quid posted, I must admit I was slightly worried that for that price it was going to be made out of cheese but actually it worked fine.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351195305558 There were no instructions included but Youtube came to the rescue
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351195305558 There were no instructions included but Youtube came to the rescue

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Re: split link versus rivet?
That looks exactly the same as my Motion Pro one that was considerably more expensive

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Re: split link versus rivet?
Youtube is a God send at times. It's not just for watching idiots in West Sussex trying to wheely, fall off, smash their head and nearly get run over lol
For anyone who doesn't find a good video: don't over press the links because you can cause them to bind. Also noted that some peeps go a step further and shatter the pin on some tools.
For anyone who doesn't find a good video: don't over press the links because you can cause them to bind. Also noted that some peeps go a step further and shatter the pin on some tools.
--Dave
www:https://www.david.uk
www:https://www.david.uk